🌱✗ Tested and false“Loganberries are naturally resistant to disease and won't give you any trouble”
Loganberries are pest-free for the most part, but they are not immune to disease. The RHS's own plant record for loganberry lists susceptibility to grey mould and, on rare occasions, honey fungus, directly contradicting the blanket disease-resistant claim used in some nursery listings.
What to do: Don't skip basic disease hygiene just because a supplier calls the plant resistant. Keep air circulating around ripening fruit to limit grey mould, and if a mature shrub or tree nearby has died of honey fungus, treat that as a real if low risk rather than assuming loganberries are safe.
In Scotland: Grey mould thrives in exactly the damp, cool conditions a Scottish summer supplies, so treating the plant as trouble-free is a costlier assumption here than it would be somewhere drier.
1 source
“Cut all your loganberry canes right down to the ground every year, the same way you would with autumn raspberries, for a bigger crop”
Loganberries fruit on canes that grew the previous season, not on canes grown that same year. Cutting everything to ground level removes the very canes that would have carried next year's crop, so instead of a bigger harvest you get little or none.
What to do: After harvest, cut out only the old canes that have just fruited, right down at the base, and leave this year's new green canes untouched, tying them onto their wires ready to fruit next season.
In Scotland: This mix-up comes from confusing loganberries with autumn-fruiting raspberries, which genuinely are cut to the ground every winter because they fruit on new canes; that method is common in Scottish plots for raspberries, so it's an easy habit to carry over to loganberries by mistake.
1 source
- RHS, Blackberry and hybrid berry pruningConfirms fruit is produced on the previous season's canes, and pruning should remove only the old fruited stems at the base after harvest, leaving new canes for next year.
“You need to plant two loganberry bushes or you won't get any fruit”
Loganberries are self-fertile: a single bush has flowers with compatible pollen and doesn't need a second plant to set fruit. That said, insect activity still improves how uniformly the fruit sets, so a lone plant with poor pollinator visits can still crop lightly.
What to do: One loganberry plant is enough to fruit, so you don't need to find space for a second one purely for pollination. If you notice patchy, uneven fruit set, the more likely cause is a shortage of visiting insects during flowering rather than needing a second plant.
In Scotland: Cool, wet spells during flowering are common in Scotland and can suppress bee activity for days at a time, which is the more realistic cause of a poor set here, not a lack of a second bush.
1 source
